Being as we have been snowbirds
for the past 15 years, we have lived in temps ranging from the 60s to the 90s.
So, with temps hovering in the 50s and overcast skies, we had to pull out our winter gear. Surprisingly,
we adapted to the cooler weather easier than we thought.
Once we crossed into Alaska, we
spent a couple days in Tok, to finalize our trip planning. Alaska is home to
eight national parks that equal the size of Wisconsin. However, only three
are accessible by car.
From Tok, we headed south and drove along the western
edge of
the Wrangler/St Elias National Park, America's largest national park, six times
that of Yellowstone. The two dirt roads were designed for high clearance
vehicles, which ours is not.
Nearby wildfires, kept us from
capturing Mt St Elias, America's second largest mountain, nor Mt Wrangler
one of the largest caldera volcano's in the country. Unlike other caldera
filled with water (like Crater Lake), this one is capped with a glacier
three miles in diameter.
The visitors center has this 'fish
wheel' used by Athabascans in shallow rivers to catch salmon. The current turns the paddles
and drops the fish into holding tanks.
The drive to Valdez is designate as
a
scenic highway and one of the most spectacular roads we had ever driven.
Hundreds of waterfalls took melting
snow and rainfall down to rushing creeks and streams.
Jagged mountain tops.
As well as glacier lined mountain tops.
An incomplete railway tunnel to
nowhere.
Keystone Canyon boxed in this scenic
highway for three miles.
With stunning views of Bridal
and Horsetail Falls.
And for the next three days, it
rained.
Valdez has about 3,800 people,
supporting tourism, the Trans Alaskan Oil-Pipeline Terminal and is one of nine
principle seaports in Alaska.
This charter boat doubles for church
on Sunday mornings, which leaves port at 8:00 am and returns a hour later.
We got a front row seat, largely
because there were only five church goers that morning! The rain and fog were so
thick, we couldn't see the shoreline.
After church, we suited up in layers
and rain gear and hiked some nearby trails. We were not willing to let the
rain stop us from enjoying our excursion.
Solomon Gulch Creek, one of many
creeks that run into the
Port of Valdez, is home to a salmon fish hatchery, that yields 15.8 million
pink and 83,000 coho salmon each year.
This sea lion, and other harbor seals and
commercial and private fisherman were having a field day as these salmon were
coming
home to spawn.
Valdez was one of the hardest hit
communities during the 1964 Good Friday earthquake. At 9.2, it was the
second worst earthquake on record. Of the 131 casualties, thirty-two were from
Valdez.
The quake and tsunami that followed
did so much damage to Valdez, that the entire community was moved four miles
west. Buildings not moved were burnt or demolished. This plaque is
all that remains.
This port near Valdez is the
terminal to the Trans-Alaskan oil-pipeline that stores and transports about 1.8
million barrels of oil per day from the Prudhoe Bay about 800 miles to the
north.
In 1989, the Exxon Valdez tanker ran aground
and dumped 11 million gallons causing the second largest oil-spill in U.S. history
affecting 1,300 miles of coastline and 11,000 square miles of ocean and
killing countless
sea life and wildlife.
We took a day cruise to see the
Columbia Glacier on this double decker tour boat. Our captain, filled us
in
with facts and cool stories along the way.
We left from the Valdez harbor, which
is loaded with private and commercial fishing boats. We were told that one
processing plant ships 1.5 million pounds of fish each day.
This is another picture of the
Valdez oil terminal.
The oil cleanup took years, but what
we saw was awe inspiring. Although, we were told that oil still remains in
the ground.
This
mountain has dozens of waterfalls. These fishing boats are docked and
waiting for tomorrow, as one day per week, they are not allowed to fish.
Our captain told us that a storm they
had the day before, took a toll on these sea lions and that is why they were all resting
on shore.
This
iceberg is a calve from the Columbia Glacier. It is said to be the size
of our boat, about 90' long and that we can only see the top
ten percent of the iceberg, meaning that the remaining 90 percent resides under the water.
At this point we are about a mile
from the Columbia Glacier, said to be the fastest retreating glacier in the
world, having retreated 12 miles since 1980. To put this video in perspective,
the wall of the glacier is about 400 feet tall.
Alaskan Sea Otters can grow up to
five feet long and weigh as much as 100 pounds. Their fur is thick,
about one million hairs per square inch. Russian and American hunters are
said to have captured up to 300,000 sea otters for fur pelts, leaving them
nearly extinct and they still remain on the list of endangered species.
With its vast expanse, Alaska is home
to the largest concentration of black bears, estimated to be over 100,000. We
spotted a few from the roadside, one with a baby cub following its mom.
With Valdez's unfortunate history,
city leaders are committed to showcasing its past with three museums with
artifact such as this 1886 hand pump fire engine.
One museum is dedicated to both
Indigenous art and crafts made from the trappings of furry creatures for their
meat, plus material to keep out the bitter cold.
The
creativity and craftsmanship that went into all these products were awesome.
Six day later, we boarded this ferry
for a five-hour cruise to Whittier, located on the northeastern part of the Kenai
Peninsula.
Seward
Homer
Anchorage
Denali
Fairbanks
Valdez's web page includes July 15 through July 20.